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In the afternoon of our Spring Associates' Day 2005
Mary explained to us the work she had undertaken recently
in remounting one of our Vestments designed by Sir Ninian Comper;
work completed in memory of Sister Elisabeth Julian SSB.

Mary renovating our Vestment of 'Our Lady' View of Mary and Vestments on Associates Day

The history of Sir Ninian Comper and his association
with the Sisters of Bethany
.

The need for vestments and hangings for the Community use saw the founding of the work-room at Lloyd Square in London in 1873. In the Chronicles of 1876 we read that Sister Grace made a funeral pall of grey and gold. The School of Embroidery was opened a few years later at No 6 Lloyd Street. Girls for training were received and orders from outside were accepted. By 1883 Embroidery lessons were given at the Bournemouth Convent.

In 1883, whilst articled to Bodley and Garner, Ninian Comper as a young architectural student lodged at 6 Lloyd Street, Clerkenwell with Fr George S Hollings SSJE, our Chaplain at that time. Fr Hollings was a friend of his father. One day the Sisters were asked to make a mitre and having no idea how to set about it, they consulted their Chaplain who suggested that the young Comper might help. Thus, Comper began designing for the Community's School of Embroidery. The Reverend Mother in her Lent Letter 1886 wrote: "Our Embroidery School has made a great start with assistance of a devoted young artist, J N Comper, pupil of Bodley and Garner". It was largely due to the orders which Ninian Comper placed with the Sisters that their work became famous and was in great demand, not only in England, but throughout the world. At the time only 6 Sisters embroidered, but increased orders necessitated more needlewomen; various ladies came to help and were trained there, including Ninian Comper's sister-in-law, Lucy Bucknall. Local girls were employed and fee-paying pupils were accepted.

Under Comper's direction, which continued for the rest of his life, its object came "to follow as closely as possible upon the lines of the old English work in its best days". The School came to produce the finest church embroidery - vestments, banners, altar frontals and linen. Work was executed for other architects and designers, but it was always put away when Comper visited.
A School of Embroidery leaflet of the early 20th Century stresses that “it is well, as far as possible, to have fresh designs made for each order, therefore, in asking for an estimate the course recommended is to send necessary measurements and any information - such as the date of the building, its Dedication, and the amount that can be spent on each order; then a sketch of a suitable design will be prepared and sent for inspection”.

In 1887, the first official Sister-in-Charge of the Embroidery School was appointed. Sister Eliza Christina worked with her assistants Sister Ellen and Sister Ellen Joanna. The Sisters' aim of producing work worthy to stand in the great tradition of English ecclesiastical embroidery was greatly advanced by Comper's guidance and patient training of workers to carry out his exquisite designs. He set the highest standards and art was truly an expression of his faith. One of the main areas of work in which the School of Embroidery excelled, and for which it was so well known was or nué, or shaded gold work. One of the people who worked at the School has said that the Cope Hood used to hang at the front of the School in order to be an inspiration for those learning the art and as an example of the standard of work towards which they must aspire.

When an elaborate chasuble had been finished, Comper asked Sister Doris Mary, the Sister in Charge of the Embroidery Room to open a seam so that he could inspect the inner stitching. "But nobody will see it", she said in dismay. "You forget, Sister, that it will be seen by the angels".

During 1892/3 Sister Anna Mary succeeded as Sister-in-Charge until her death in 1922. She was well remembered for all the help to poor churches and caring for the young girls who came to the School for training and to work at the age of 14.

From 1893 silk brocade and damask, cloth of gold, linen and tapestry were woven to his design by a firm of Spitalfields weavers, M Perkins & Son, of Curtain Road, Shoreditch and dyed by Wardle & Co of Leek, using Chinese compounds for their purity of colour. The textiles were sold commercially, although primarily designed for Comper's own use.

Increased orders necessitated engaging good secular staff: Miss Hetty Worrell acted as Head Embroideress, followed by Miss Emma Walker and Miss Clara Jay, all trained within the School by Comper. In later years Winnie Peppiatt was conspicuous for the excellence of her work. Mary Davis, embroideress from an early age, gave up embroidery for the less glamorous "making up". This making up of vestments, frontals, banners and mitres is by far the more difficult task, as fabrics, embroideries and lining need to be brought together in such a way as to "hang well" when finished. Mary explained this side of the making and remounting of Vestments during her talk on Associates’ Day in 2005.

Comper’s association with the School lasted into the mid-1950’s for he was still remembered at the Centenary Celebrations of the Founding of the Community in 1966 for a “long and fruitful association”.

An exhibition of work by the Sisters since the beginning of the Embroidery School and under Comper's influence was held in 1972 at the Convent at Bournemouth [which closed in 1986], which had become the Mother House, the Sisters having left Lloyd Square in 1962. Exhibits were collected from around the country and were a fitting tribute to the closure of the School of Embroidery of the Sisters of Bethany which occurred a few months after the Exhibition. Some of the earliest work amongst the exhibits was a white set of High Mass vestments made in 1891 for St Alban’s Holborn and a red silk cope made in 1904 is now in the collection of the V&A.

Many beautiful examples of "modern" needlework were made, following closely the lines of the best English medieval work and exceeding that standard, within a short time. These art treasures found their way to as many far flung destinations as St Mark's Philadelphia, and their Vestments; Melbourne, Kilkenny, Poona, New York and countless churches, chapels and Cathedrals in the British Isles. A magnificent set of vestments, now lost, were made for the Papal Chamberlain in Scotland, and later presented to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, Paris.

The income from the School of Embroidery helped to fund the other work carried out by the Community - their Orphanage and parish work.

Photographs of Vestments etc

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Sir John Ninian Comper
10 June 1864 - 22 December 1960

We are grateful to Father Anthony Symondson SJ
who has written extensively on the Life and Works of Sir Ninian Comper
and from whose articles the following information has been extracted.
[see details in Bibliography below]

John Ninian Comper was born in Aberdeen on 10 June 1864, the eldest son of the Revd John and Ellen Comper. The Revd John Comper was a priest of the Scottish Episcopal Church, having moved to Scotland on the recommendation of Samuel Wilberforce, Bishop of Oxford and was a northern leader of the Anglo-Catholic phase of the Oxford Movement. Comper's work can only be fully understood within the context of the Oxford Movement and its later developments. Comper's father included many of the leading Anglo-Catholics, clerical and lay, in the south of England among his friends and asked one of them, the liturgist and hymn-writer, John Mason Neale to be god-father to his son Ninian. The family connections helped considerably to form the structure of Comper's early patronage. Since childhood, religion played a decisive part in Comper’s life. Anglo-Catholicism remained the most powerful force in Comper's life and the religious impulse behind his work was always evident and had a direct influence upon his architectural work, filling him with a desire to build and decorate churches as an expression of Catholic truth and a vehicle for Catholic worship.

Comper was educated as a small boy at a prep school in Aberdeen, moving as a boarder in 1874 to Trinity College, Glenamond, where he won many prizes. In 1880, at the age of 16, he had a nervous breakdown, and left later that year, bringing to an end his parents' fervent hope that he would read for holy orders.

He began to draw at the Aberdeen School of Art. His rapidly increasing gifts were recognised by a family friend, Fr George Congreve, of the Society of St John the Evangelist, Cowley, who arranged for Comper to study for a term at the Ruskin School, Oxford while living with the Cowley Fathers. In 1882 he worked for 6 months studying glass-painting when he expressed a desire to become a church decorator; the work coming to an end due to the fact that he was being used as an unpaid draughtsman.

He then began work in 1883 as an articled pupil for George Frederick Bodley and Thomas Garner. These men were the leading church architects of the last quarter of the 19th century bringing the Gothic Revival to a breathtaking point of refinement and perfection. William Bucknall also worked there, with whom he later went into Partnership in 1888.

In 1890 Comper married Grace, the younger sister of his partner, William Bucknall. They had six children: Sebastian, who became an architect - and worked for a period for his father; Mary; Quintyn, who became a school master; Nicholas, the designer of the Comper Swift aeroplane, tragically killed in 1939; Ursula; and Adrian, a designer of medical equipment.

During the course of his work Comper not only restored medieval churches but was given many opportunities to furnish and decorate churches of the Gothic Revival. Details of the Churches he worked on can be found in the articles listed below. St Cyprian's, Clarence Gate, Marylebone (1902-3) was the church which Comper considered his most successful during his partnership with William Bucknall and its design was exhibited in the Royal Academy in the year of its consecration.

Although Comper was a Church architect, he designed only 15 churches - one of which was St Philip's Cosham. The remaining properties were convent or institutional chapels and a few vicarages. He was aware of the reliance on his Partner for his share in their design, for it was Bucknall’s structural experience and skill which enabled Comper's ideas to be turned into reality: Comper's brilliance as a church furnisher was recognised from the beginning. The amount of work completed by Comper was extensive, and almost impossible to record.

The partnership with Bucknall ended in 1905; his nephew, Arthur Bucknall who had joined the practice in 1891, became Comper's amanuensis [one who writes from dictation or copies manuscript].

At the coronation of Edward VII in 1902 the Sisters of Bethany embroidered the Annunciation upon the Cope Hood, divided by an upright of silver-gift, and this was worn by the Bishop of Norwich. The Vestment was made of Russian cloth of gold left over from the coronation of the Czar and brought back by the banker Birkbeck, a passionate student of the Russian Orthodox Church. Comper also designed the binding for the coronation Prayer Books.

In 1912 Comper moved to the Priory, 67 Beulah Hill, Upper Norwood. The enormous and greatly loved garden was filled with plants grown from cuttings brought back from his travels. The Priory remained his home until his death.

Comper established a study at 228 Knight's Hill, West Norwood, near to his own house at that time. The building had a coach house; the stables were turned into a glazier's shop, and a coke-fired kiln was built, with all the windows facing north. One window was specially designed to hoist panels of completed glass into a position convenient for viewing, and at this end the glass-painters worked. The rest of the building consisted essentially of a bench about 40 feet long [12 metres], also facing north, for drawing-boards. The remaining space (it was only 18 feet wide [5.5 metres]) was taken up by chests of drawers for keeping drawings, leaving room for Comper's desk and a bookshelf, and little else, except for a series of framed heraldic garter plates from one of St John Hope's monumental folios. The study was, much to Comper's anger, compulsory purchased in 1946 and it was moved to the Priory. He regarded this as nothing less than confiscation of his property.

Comper's aim was to accomplish the highest standards of perfection, which he achieved by training and maintaining the same body of glass painters, embroidresses, stone and wood carvers, metalworkers and weavers during 72 years' practice. Many worked for him as young men and remained for the rest of their lives ensuring the consistency of perfection upon which he insisted.

Grace Comper died in 1933 and her ashes were buried in the Jesus chancel of St Mary's Wellingborough. After Grace's death, Comper became even more reclusive. He repudiated the Architect's Registration Act, considering architecture as an art, not a profession, and delighted in describing himself in "Who's Who" as "architect, unregistered". He grew increasingly close to the Bucknall family. Arthur Bucknall died in 1952 and was replaced by his second son, John, as the practice's amanuensis.

Ninian Comper was 70 in 1934 and many of his architectural contemporaries died during this decade. His retirement would not have been unexpected but instead his life and work flourished in varied and surprising ways and he remained “in practice” until his death at the age of 96.

In 1938 he was approached for an interview by John Betjeman, then working on "The Architectural Review" and a firm friendship resulted, leading to the publication of Betjeman's major article "J N Comper, Heir to Butterfield and Bodley" in the "Review" in 1939.

In 1950, at the age of 84, Comper received a knighthood. It was Betjeman who organised the testimonials.

Sir Ninian Comper died on the 22 December 1960; the last Gothic Revivalist, heir to Butterfield and Bodley. Curiously, he died on the same day as his life-long companion and closest friend Arthur Bucknall. His ashes are buried in the Jesus chancel in the north aisle of Westminster Abbey beneath his windows of abbots and kings.


Important dates in the Life of Sir John Ninian Comper

10 June 1864
Born in Aberdeen, eldest son of Rev John and Ellen Comper
1874
Boarder to Trinity College, Glenamond
1880
Left Trinity College following a breakdown
Aberdeen School of Art
1882
Introduced to Charles Eamer Kempe - glass-painter and church craftsman
21 May 1883
began work as an articled pupil for George Frederick Bodley and Thomas Garner
William Bucknall also worked there

1884

1887

Chapel enlarged at the House of Retreat, Lloyd Square
Architect: Ernest Newton; Sanctuary: Ninian Comper
Pupilage came to an end

1888
Agreed Partnership with William Bucknall
1888-1890
Projected the rebuilding of his father's church in Aberdeen;
the project was exhibited at the Royal Academy.
1890
Married Grace, younger sister of his partner
1891
Chapel for the Community of St Margaret, Aberdeen
1893
Conventual church of the Holy Name, Malvern Link
1902-03
St Cyprian's, Clarence Gate, Marylebone built
1903
From this date, signed his windows with a wild strawberry
1904-1932
St Mary’s, Wellingborough
1905
Partnership with William Bucknall ended;
his nephew, Arthur Bucknall becomes Comper's amanuensis
1905-1906
Greece/Italian journeys with Arthur Bucknall
1906
Coronation of Edward VII; Sisters of Bethany embroidered the Annunciation upon the Cope Hood worn by the Bishop of Norwich
1909-1961
The series of windows of abbots and kings in the north aisle of Westminster
1912
Moved to the Priory, 67 Beulah Hill, Upper Norwood; and this remained his home until his death.
1921
Portrait painted by his cousin Beatrice Bright;
which hangs in the National Portrait Gallery
1924
Journey to Algeria to see 5th Century church at Tébessa
1925 -1931
Warrior’s Chapel, Westminster Abbey
1928
Restoration of Wayneflete Chapel, Winchester Cathedral
1924-1928
Welsh National War Memorial, Cardiff
- Comper’s only secular work of major importance
1935
Grace Comper died, and ashes buried in the Jesus Chapel of St Mary’s,
Wellingborough
1935
Chapel of House of Prayer, Burnham
1937
St Phillip’s Church, Cosham
1938
Interviewed by John Betjeman
1939
Community Chapel of the Cowley Fathers SSJE
1950
Received a knighthood, at the age of 84
1952
Arthur Bucknall died
1952
Coronation Window in Canterbury Cathedral
1952
Parliamentary War Memorial Window in Westminster Hall
1959
Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham (altar and reredos) with William Bucknall
22 Dec 1960
Comper died at the Hostel of God, Clapham Common;
his ashes buried in the Jesus Chancel of Westminster Abbey
 

Bibliography:

"SIR NINIAN COMPER - The Last Gothic Revivalist" Anthony Symondson
[The Life and Work of Sir Ninian Comper 1964-1960]
Royal Institute of British Architects,
Heinz Gallery, Portman Square,
20 January - 27 February 1988

OXFORD DICTIONARY OF NATIONAL BIOGRAPHY /
THE DICTIONARY OF ART

In Local Libraries
"THE CALL OF THE CLOISTER" Peter F AnsonSPCK 1955
[Religious Communities and kindred bodies in the Anglican Communion] p.410 [cf P.405-412]

THE WATTS BOOK OF EMBROIDERY

  Watts & Co Ltd, in association with the
Friends of the Liverpool Cathedral Museum,
London 1998
"Collins Guide to PARISH CHURCHES of England and Wales" Edited by John Betjeman
[Index - Page P.491] COLLINS 1980
   
New Publication - 2006:  
"Sir Ninian Comper - An Introduction to his life and work with complete gazetteer"
Anthony Symondson SJ and Stephen Arthur Bucknall Spire Books & the Ecclesiological Society

 

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Bibliography and Further Reading List

 

Society of the Sisters of Bethany, 7 Nelson Road, Southsea, Hants, PO5 2AR

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